Putting the 'Pest' in Budapest, Part 1

As I promised, I actually went through my notes and decided to write something up for the trip. Keeping a notebook is actually somewhat helpful, otherwise if it wasn't for the pictures I'd be hard pressed to tell you what I did (my memory is an amazing thing - I can't remember the things I wish to remember and can't forget the things I wish to forget).

Feb 21:
My flights over to Frankfurt before I took that final leg into Budapest were remarkably unremarkable. It's not that they sucked, they were just average. Perhaps it's a matter of routine, but when you fly a lot, after a while the flights just sort of blur together. I had some time to kill off, so I took a power nap and ate breakfast in the Admirals Club before I took the train over to the other terminal to get on the Malev Fokker for the last trip. I did go through security again, and the folks at Frankfurt enjoy patting people down. Normally, some guys would pay to have their genitals cupped (or they'd have to pay you), but in Frankfurt, they insist on this even if you don't trip the metal detector.

I did get to snag a drink at the British Airways lounge before I got impatient and walked to the departure gate. Surprise! Another security checkpoint. You'd think that this would be enough, so I prepared for the inappropriate touching that only they can provide and to my surprise, I got off without a secondary cop-a-feel. Everything's coming up Hawkins!

I did feel kind of good, relaxed on the floor at the gate waiting for the bus to take us to our plane. After Istanbul and Delhi, it was a little strange not to be with someone on a trip, but it felt decent because I could get back to my normal routine and be the quiet American. I enjoyed my companions immensely, but sometimes journeys have to be taken alone.

We landed at Budapest's Ferihegy Airport, which was quite the small terminal. After you were bussed off the aircraft, you were let into the terminal. Within 15 feet was the immigration booth, then 15 feet after that was your baggage claim (with an ATM and a hotel shuttle booth while you wait, which is pretty damn brilliant). After that, walk another 15 feet (well, 30, but you get the idea) to pass customs and you're officially in Hungary. It was a little too efficient, but I went with it.

Arrived at the Le Meridien in Budapest. What a magnificent hotel! I got the sweet upgrade to a corner suite, which was twice the size of my bachelor pad (that's always a good sign). And despite me sleeping during the flights over, I crashed for a few hours when I arrived (I did have mild ambition when I got off the plane - I did want to see something while it was light out). After I woke up, I decided to go check out St. Stephen's Basilica at night. The architecture of it was quite impressive, and only later did I find out that it was named after the Stephen, the first King of Hungary, and his mummified fist was inside. (More on that later.)

My habit of arriving in a country is invariably followed with my First Beer. I found a recommended bar called Negro and had the local beer, Dreher. It wasn't too bad, surprisingly. It was a nice cute club but seeing it was my first establishment, I didn't want to dwell (it was also rather upscale, so me showing up in slackerware didn't help me stand out less). I grabbed dinner at Tom + George and had awesome chicken tikka masala (none of the local cuisine looked appealing) and it was actually better than what I had in India (go figure). I finished the night up at Cafe Montmartre, which was a halfway decent jazz club that was haunted by local college students, giving it a bit of Bohemian flair. I also tried some Sopori (another local beer) which was pretty decent. Went back to the hotel, crashed.

Feb 22:
I decided that the best way to immerse myself in my new city was to go and get lost. I got turned around on the Metro and ended up right outside the Opera House and walked to the Old Jewish Quarter and took a walking tour that was suggested by my Time Out book. In a way, I wish I would be able to come back around the High Holidays since it was nice and quaint. I didn't want to take a tour of the Great Synagogue because I was pressed for time, so I hiked it to the National Museum. As soon as I walked in, they told me that I had to stow my camera, which pissed me off. Cameras and me go together like... well, whatever - but I hate to keep my camera bag out of my control. Call me paranoid, but... Also, half of the permanent exhibitions were closed, so I got bummed that I couldn't see most of the museum. They also had this amazing stairwell with sweet frescos but got shot down when I tried to sneak a shot of them (sneaking shots in dimly lit rooms isn't exactly the most fast thing to do.) Maybe next time I'll be allowed to shoot with impunity.

After poking my head in the Central Market Hall, I stated at the south end of Vaci Utca, which is a shopping promenade. Most guide books tell you to watch out for pickpockets and "commission girls," who will drag invite you to drink with them at a "local bar" and then they charge you $30 a drink or some ghastly amount and threaten to kick your ass if you don't pay. I did run into commission girls later on the trip and told them that I LOVED tourist places and can't get enough of them. But they were polite when I turned them down, so I guess that counts for something. Along Vaci Utca was St. Michael's City Church, which blended in so well that I walked by it twice looking for it and poked my head in. It was nice, very urban. Overall (in daylight, natch), it made for a nice leisurely stroll but the guard was up.

I took the Metro to Keleti station and picked up my ticket to Vienna. Not too bad overall, around $43 for a round trip ticket. It was surprisingly easy to get my ticket, and so I headed back towards the hotel and ate at Arany Barany near the British Embassy. I figured it was time to try the local grub and I got some Belszinszelet, which was supposed to be a meat stew but the meat tasted awful (it's quite possible I had some tasty horse). The best part of the meal was Pesci beer, which is sad. And since it got late, I tried out two pubs, Rondella Borozo and Columbus and had Gosser. It was about 10pm, so I decided that tomorrow would be a marathon day and that I needed my rest if I were going to be up at the crack of dawn to try to get some good photos.